3D printing can be combined with fabric to create new and experimental textiles. This process still has many possibilities to explore. We will test on: power mesh, heat-sealable nylon, and cotton/poly broadcloth. PLA can also work for most fabrics, but it did not stick well to the heat-sealable fabric tested.

Activity Brief

1. TPU, PLA or another filament
2. Mesh netting fabrics
3. blue tape
4. scissors
5. ruler
6. 3D printer
7. Laptop

Activity Materials

؜1st

For the 3D filament to stay on fabric it either needs to be perforated or be coated with a hot-melt polymer (although not all coatings work with all filament).

؜1st

Netting and Meshes

The perforated fabric can be a mesh or netting. The fabric is placed in between layers of printed filament making contact and bonding with itself through the holes in the netting or perforation. The fabric then gets locked in and your print stays on the fabric.

Choose Filament

؜2nd

TPU is used for the snap design I include. The flexibility of the TPU is needed so the socket half can flex to allow the stud to snugly fit. The design can work with PLA if the tension allowance is adjusted or the walls are thinned out to allow for flexing. The .step files are included in under Materials in case you want to modify the design.

Selecting Settings

؜3rd

Open your design in Bambu Studio.

Select the filament type you are using and adjust the settings if needed.

If using TPU (Flexible Filament)

1. Infill: 75%
2. Nozzle Temperature: ~220 °C
3. Print Speed: ~40–60 mm/s (TPU prints better at slower speeds on Bambu printers)
4. Bed Temperature: ~35–45 °C
5. Use a smooth PEI plate or textured plate depending on the fabric you place on the bed.

If using PLA or ABS

1. You can use the default Bambu filament profiles, which are already optimized in Bambu Studio.
2. Slice the model and preview the layers.
3. Send the file to the printer:
4. Send directly through Wi-Fi from Bambu Studio, or
5. Save the file and print from the SD card on the printer.

Cut Fabric

؜4th

Cut a piece of fabric that is a little smaller than the printable area.

Print

؜5th

Start the printer and send your design to the printer through Wi-Fi from Bambu Studio or by loading the file from the SD card.

Have your fabric swatch and blue painter’s tape ready next to the printer. You will need them shortly after the print begins.

The key trick is to pause the print, place the fabric on the build plate, and then resume printing so the plastic embeds into the fabric.

1. Start the print and watch the first layers closely.
2. Let the printer print the first layer completely.
3. When the printer begins the second layer (about 1–2 mm thick), press Pause on the printer screen or in Bambu Studio.
4. The print head will move away from the model.
5. Carefully place the fabric over the printed base layer.
6. Use small pieces of blue painter’s tape to secure the fabric to the build plate so it stays flat and tight.
7. Press Resume Print.

The printer will continue printing, and the next layers of plastic will lock the fabric into the design, creating a flexible textile with embedded 3D printed structures.

Completion

؜6th

Once the fabric is in place, press Resume Print on the printer screen or in Bambu Studio.

Unlike older printers, Bambu printers automatically level the bed, so you do not need to adjust knobs under the platform. However, you should still watch the first layer after resuming the print.

1. If the fabric is thin, the nozzle should print normally and the filament will embed into the textile.
2. If the fabric is thicker, make sure it is stretched flat and securely taped so the nozzle does not catch on it.

Let the printer finish the print completely.

When the print is finished: Remove the blue painter’s tape. Carefully lift the fabric and print from the build plate.

You should now have a 3D printed structure embedded directly into the fabric, creating a flexible textile prototype.

When you think of 3D printing, you probably think of solid objects. But did you know that you can use a 3D printer to make a flexible fabric? This activity will show you how to design and 3D print your own fabric.

Activity Brief

1. TPU, PLA or another filament
2. Mesh netting fabrics
3. blue tape
4. scissors
5. ruler
6. 3D printer
7. Laptop

Activity Materials

؜1st

؜Picking the Shape

1. Open Tinkercad and create a new design. Drag a basic shape (triangle, hexagon, square, etc.) onto the workplane.
2. Adjust the Length and Width to the size you want for one tile.

Set the Height to about 17 mm

These shapes will become the fabric tiles.

؜2nd

؜Creating the connectors

1. Drag a thin box shape.
2. Adjust the size:
3. Height: about 1 mm
4. Length: long enough to connect two tiles.
5. Place the connector between two shapes.
6. The connectors act like hinges, allowing the fabric to bend.

؜3rd

Start duplicating to create a repeating pattern.

Digi-Fab

A Collection of Tools

Digital fabrication refers to the use of computer-controlled tools and processes to create physical objects from digital designs. It's an umbrella term that encompasses various technologies, including 3D printing, laser cutting, CNC machining, and more

3D Printer

Laser Cutter

Vinyl Cutter / Plotter

CNC Milling Machine

Waterjet Cutter

3D Printing

Why Use it? Why not?

• Enables rapid iteration with precision
• Can create very complex parts that couldn't be created through other means
• Low cost & little waste
• Huge support community

• More software experience needed to 3D model & modify parts
• Generally slower than other fabrication methods
• Post processing may be required

+

-

3D Printing

What Is It?

3D printing is a manufacturing process where a digital model is turned into a physical object by adding material layer by layer. This process is controlled by a computer and commonly uses materials like plastic, metal, or resin to create a wide range of objects, from prototypes and tools to final products.

Key Concepts

Printer Types

3D printers come in several types: FDM extrudes melted plastic; SLA and DLP use UV light to cure resin; SLS and SLM fuse powdered materials with lasers; and and PolyJet uses jets to deposit materials, allowing for high precision and multi-material prints.

Each type is suited for different applications and materials.

Key Concepts

FDM Printers

Cartesian

Delta

Core XY

Conveyor Belt

Key Concepts

FDM Materials

Strategies

Considerations

Build Volume

Support Material

Infill Percentage

Layer Orientation & Resolution

Part Orientation

Strategies

Building by Layers

Because you are stacking melted plastic on other extruded plastic, 3D printing is like building a sand castle. Your castle shape must stack sand on other sand underneath it.

Strategies

Building by Layers

If the design you create causes the 3D printer to float melted plastic in the air, without supporting plastic layers underneath it, your print will fail.

Strategies

Overhangs

A 3D printer can generally print overhang layers to a certain angle (~45°) before the quality of the print begins to be affected.

Newer printers, with more sophisticated cooling systems, such as the Prusa MK4S can print at much steeper overhangs, up to 75° or greater

Ryan

Strategies

Support Material

Ryan

Supports can later be broken off of the completed print

If the design requires overhangs, supports can be generated by the  3D printer software to hold up the overhanging material.

Strategies

Part Orientation

Ryan

Whenever considering using supports, first question if rotating the part

on the print bed would allow a print without supports.

When printing a difficult shape, like a sphere, consider splitting the shape 

into two pieces (two domes) which would allow an easy print with no supports. 

The orientation (rotation) of a print can also affect its quality. Standing this part vertically is a better orientation.

Strategies

Infill and Layer Resolution

Ryan

3D prints are not solid. They are an outside wall of plastic with an “infill” pattern that can be set to very empty to very dense.

Similarly, 3D prints can be printed with different layer heights, leading to more refined and smooth surfaces at the cost of time.

3D Printing

Custom Models vs Downloaded Content

vs

Thingiverse

Custom Designed Model

Slip-Cast Ceramic

Zoom Widgets

Molded Bioplastic

Hand Drive for Wheel Chair

Polar Bear Cake

Pressed Paper Pulp

A Few Applications

MK1

MK3

MK2

MK4

Case Study

Persephone VR Headset

Case Study

Persephone VR Headset

Jade

To prepare a design for 3D printing, create a 3D model and export it as an STL or OBJ file, which can be sent to a 3D printer. Here are common software options:

1. Tinkercad (Free, very easy)
2. SketchUp – (Free or license, intermediate)
3. Fusion 360 (License needed, intermediate)
4. AutoCAD (License needed , intermediate)
5. Blender (Free, Advanced)
6. Rhino – (License needed, Advanced)
7. SolidWorks – (License needed, Advanced)

؜3D Designs

What is Tinkercad?

Tinkercad is a fun and easy-to-use computer program that helps you make 3D designs.

Check out the Tinkercad 101 deck for a step-by-step tutorial.

Resources

Resources

Tinkercad has a variety of built-in resources including a learning center with dozens of step-by-step tutorials and a collection of challenges.

3D Printing

Slicer Workflow

3D Printing Pipeline

The 3D printing workflow is a process that starts with a 3D model in a CAD software that is exported to a 3D printer slicers software, which prepares the file for the printer.

CAD Software

Online Database

Slicer Software

3D Print!

CAD Model

Fusion 360

Rhino

Tinkercad

Onshape

Thingiverse

Myminifactory

Printables

GrabCAD

Cura

Prusa Slicer

Simplify 3D

Chitubox

Prusa

Bambu Lab

Creality

Anycubic

1. 3D Printing

• Export your 3d design as STL file

Open Your Slicer

1. Prusa: Use PrusaSlicer
2. Bambu: Use Bambu Studio
3. Ultimaker: Cura or Prusaslicer

1. Open your slicer software.

Import your 3D work

Click “Add/Import Model” or drag the STL file into the workspace.

Position & Scale

1. Check the model’s orientation – the flattest side should face the build plate.
2. Scale the model if needed.
3. Move the model so it sits on the build plate (z=0).

Move

Scale

Rotation

Use this tool to cut the object into 2 parts

؜

Bambu Studio

Prusa

Cura

Choose Print Settings

Infill is how much you want the object to be filled from the inside

1. Material: PLA, PETG, etc.
2. Layer Height: 0.2 mm (standard)
3. Infill: 15–20% for decorative parts, 50%+ for strong parts.

Select Your Printer

1. Look for “Printer” or “Select Printer” in the menu.
2. Choose your printer from the list:
3. PrusaSlicer: e.g., Prusa i3 MK4, MINI+
4. Bambu Studio: e.g., Bambu Lab X1, X1 Carbon
5. The slicer will automatically set the build volume, nozzle size, and default settings for that printer.
6. If your printer isn’t listed, you can add a custom printer using its specs (build size, nozzle, filament type).

Bambu Studio

Prusa

Cura

Next step is adding supports so overhangs print correctly. ؜Only add supports where needed to save filament and make removal easier. For simple models, you might not need any.

Add Supports

Add Supports

؜PrusaSlicer

1. Go to the “Print Settings” panel.
2. Find “Support material” → check “Generate support material”.
3. Choose the support type:
4. Everywhere → supports under all overhangs
5. Build plate only → only supports that touch the build plate
6. Adjust overhang threshold (default ~45°; higher = fewer supports).
7. Preview your model to see where supports will be added.

؜Cura

1. Open the Print Setup panel.
2. Scroll to “Support” → enable Generate Support.
3. Choose “Support Placement”:
4. Everywhere or Touching Buildplate
5. Set Overhang Angle (default 45°).
6. Use Preview mode to verify placement.

؜Bambu Studio

1. After importing your STL, go to “Supports”.
2. Turn “Auto Supports” ON. Bambu Studio automatically calculates needed supports.
3. You can also manually add/remove supports if necessary.
4. Preview to confirm everything is supported properly.

Slider to check print

؜You can drag the slider to see printing time and the process of printing.

1. Shows how the machine will cut or print step-by-step.
2. Lets you check mistakes before starting.
3. Helps you see which layer or path happens first or last.

Slider to check print

Click “Preview” at the top of the screen (after slicing). The vertical slider appears on the right side of the screen.

Drag slider up/down to move through layers. Shows supports, infill, and print order.

CURA

Click "Slice". The layer slider appears on the right side. There is also a play button to watch the print animation.

You can also toggle toolpaths and speed visualization.

BAMBU

PRUSA

؜Click "Slice" . The layer slider appears on the right side of the workspace.

1. Right-click (or click the + icon) on a layer
2. Select Add Color Change / Pause
3. The printer will stop at that layer, letting you change filament

Choose how detailed you want your model to be, keep in mind;

more details = more printing time

Finally, Export G-code which is sent to the Printer

1. Via SD card / USB / Wi-Fi / cloud (depends on printer). This is for Ultimakers and Prusas.

Most Bambu printers don’t use an SD card like traditional Prusas. They are designed to work with Bambu Studio or the Bambu app for sending prints.

Print Settings

Export G-Code

That's it!



Now you can take your SD card to the 3d printer

Next Slide

Prusa Machine

Jump to next session for either the Ultimaker or Bambu

؜Turn on your machine

1. Power switch ON
2. Wait for the screen to load

Load Filament

1. On the screen: Filament → Load Filament
2. Select filament type (PLA, PETG, etc.)
3. Printer heats nozzle
4. Insert filament until it feeds
5. Confirm when filament comes out clean

Prepare the Bed

Make sure build plate is:

1. Clean (no glue blobs / fingerprints)
2. Correct side (smooth vs textured)

Place plate properly on magnets

Insert SD Card / USB

1. Insert the SD card into the 3D printer's SD card slot on the left side.
2. Print → Select file

Printer will:

1. Home axes
2. Heat bed & nozzle
3. Auto bed level
4. Start printing

Nozzle temperature

Bed temperature

the process of printing in percentage

File's name

To edit the setting you can go to "Tune"

Printing speed 40–60 mm/s

Nozzle temperature 200–210 °C

Bed temperature 55–60 °C

Edit Settings

Fan speed 255

Material Flow 95

To edit the setting you can go to "Tune"

Edit Settings

During the Print

It will start by getting rid of a the plastic in the nozzle

Watch first layer

If needed:

1. Adjust Live Z
2. Pause / Stop from screen

After Print Finishes

Let bed cool

Remove print

Turn printer OFF

Next Slides

Bambu Machine

Jump to next session for either the Ultimaker

؜Turn on your machine

1. Power switch ON
2. Wait for the screen to load

Prepare the Bed

Make sure build plate is:

1. Clean (no glue blobs / fingerprints)
2. Correct side (smooth vs textured)

Place plate properly on magnets

Load Filament

With AMS (Automatic Multi-Material System)

1. Load each filament spool into the AMS slots.
2. In Bambu Studio, make sure each filament is assigned to the correct AMS slot before slicing.
3. The printer will pull filament automatically during printing.

Without AMS (Manual Loading)

1. On the touchscreen → Filament → Load.
2. Heat nozzle if prompted.
3. Insert filament into the feeder until it starts extruding cleanly.

Use the Preview Slider

As we have already sliced our file, we will now go to Preview.

Use the layer slider to check:

1. Layer order
2. Supports
3. Where filament changes or pauses occur

Click a layer in the slider → Add Pause / Filament Change.

Assign AMS slot or plan manual change.

Add Pauses / Color Changes (Optional)

Click a layer in the slider → Add Pause / Filament Change.

Assign AMS slot or plan manual change.

Bambu Studio — Standard Print Settings (PLA)

1. Nozzle Temp 205 °C
2. Bed Temp 60 °C
3. Print Speed 50 mm/s
4. Layer Height 0.2 mm
5. Material Flow 100%
6. Fan Speed 0% for first 2 layers → 100% rest
7. Supports As needed
8. Retraction Default (4–6 mm)
9. Brim/Raft - Optional -Only if first layer adhesion is tricky

Start the Print

Click Print in Bambu Studio.

Printer will:

1. Home all axes
2. Heat bed and nozzle
3. Check filament
4. Auto-level bed
5. Begin printing

.

Start the Print

Watch the first layer carefully, it’s crucial for adhesion.

If needed:

1. Pause → adjust filament / fix small issues
2. Monitor print progress using live slider in Studio or touchscreen

Finish the Print

Printer signals when finished.

Let bed cool.

Remove print carefully.

1. If done for the day, turn OFF the printer.

Next Slides

Ultimaker

؜Turn on your machine

1. Power switch ON
2. Wait for the screen to load

Prepare the Bed

Make sure build plate is:

1. Clean (no glue blobs / fingerprints)
2. Correct side (smooth vs textured)
3. Some Ultimakers have removable flexible plates — snap them in place.

Load Filament

1. From touchscreen: Material → Load
2. Select the filament type and color
3. Printer heats nozzle automatically
4. Insert filament until it feeds cleanly through the nozzle
5. Confirm when the printer detects proper extrusion

Send File to Start

Options:

1. USB stick → insert into printer
2. Wi-Fi / Ethernet → send directly from Cura
3. Ultimaker App / Cloud → optional

On printer touchscreen → select file

1. Printer will:
2. Home axes
3. Heat nozzle & bed
4. Level bed automatically (if auto-leveling)
5. Begin printing

After Print Finishes

Let bed cool

Remove print

Turn printer OFF

Leverage curiosity of your students!

Make the machines accessible - lower barrier to entry for beginners

Encourage a balance of downloaded content with custom models

Catalog and discuss failures - they will happen!

Set clear guidelines are print-time and material use

Encourage peer to peer training with students

Use 3D printing to support other fabrication workflows

Insights on supporting

3D Printing in your makerspace

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

؜SIGN IN

؜Sign up with your school email

؜SIGN IN

Quick Overview

Tinkercad has a variety of built-in resources including a learning center with dozens of step-by-step tutorials and a collection of challenges.

Resources

Create your 3d File

؜Navigation

View control

؜

Workplane

where you build your design

؜

Shape Panel

where you find objects

؜

Toolbar

editing tools

Name your File Here

Units mm

Workspace Settings

؜Units Metric

Scale 1:1

Snap Grid 0.1mm

Navigation Controls

؜Rotate View → Right click + drag

Zoom → Scroll wheel

Pan → Hold Scroll wheel+ drag

Adding Shapes

؜Drag shapes from the shape panel to the workplane.

Basic Shapes:

• Box

• Cylinder

• Sphere

• Pyramid

؜All designs start with simple shapes.

Adding Shapes

؜Working accurately, use the ruler and set your point of origin.

Drop object on workplane

؜Click on the icon or type 'D' on keybaord

Temporary workplane

🔵 Blue grid = Default workplane

🟠 Orange grid = Temporary workplane

Press W

Show orange grid appear

Move your objects

Editing Shapes

؜You can:

• Resize objects

• Change height

• Rotate shapes

• Change colors

؜All designs start with simple shapes.

Using Holes

؜Shapes can become holes that remove material.

Holes help you:

• Cut shapes

• Create openings

• Make connections between objects

This is one of the most important Tinkercad skills!

Using Holes

؜"Union" both a solid and a hole shape to get your final design.

Using Shapes

؜"Union" 2 shapes to get your final design.

Hiding

Export for 3d Print

؜Export as .obj or .STL

You can find exciting files under the presentation post.

NuVu Resources

Insert the "Ring" Shape

Click on the tiny square that define your ring, to adjust the dimension of the ring.

؜Move around the points that define you shape for a cool design!

؜Move around the points that define you shape for a cool design!

؜If you want to add your name, drag the "text" shape

؜Rotate your text 90 degrees, so it stands.

"Union" both shapes

Linkage

Rectangle 60 * 10

2 small cylinders 4 * 4 for holes

2 Half cylinder 10 * 5 for edges

Ball and socket

Great for 360 planar rotations

1. Insert a cylinder

10*10*20 (h)

1. Make another cylinder

3.5 * 3.5 * 20 (h)

؜Add a 7*7*7 sphere

Make a copy of the sphere

Align the sphere at the top of the cyclinder

Make hole the sphere and Union group

Merge both shapes

Gear

Add 1 rectangle with those dimensions, with 2 cylinder on each side, then group.

Height 5 for all shapes

Add those 2 cylinder with those dimensions

Height 10

Height 5

Use the Circular Array Trick

1. ؜Go in "Top" view
2. Select only the cylinder
3. Press Ctrl + D (duplicate)
4. Rotate the duplicate 22.5°
5. Press Ctrl + D repeatedly
6. → You will get a perfect 16-tooth gear.

I

؜

Align center

Select all and union group

؜Same Process for the 2 other gears

Gear 2 Dimensions:

1. Rectangle: 20 * 2 * 5 (h)
2. 2 cylinders 6*2 * 5 (h)
3. Big cylinder 20 * 20 * 5
4. Hole Cylinder 5 * 5 * 20 (h)

Gear 3 Dimensions:

1. Rectangle: 15.44 * 3.8 * 5 (h)
2. 2 cylinders 4.56 * 1.67 * 5 (h)
3. Big cylinder 15.38 * 15.38 * 5
4. Hole Cylinder 5 * 5 * 20 (h)

Slider

1. Insert a cube

1. Make the height 5mm and width 60 mm

(click on the square on the sides and change the dimensions)

1. Drag a “Hole” Cylinder

1. Size it to about 5 mm diameter

1. Position it near one short end (use the Align tool later) and raise it so half the hole sits inside the keychain: set its Z (height) to 20 mm so it cuts through.

1. Select both base and cylinder and Group (Ctrl/Cmd+G) to subtract the hole.

1. Drag the Text object onto the workplane.
2. Resize the text in X and Y to fit—play with width until it looks balanced on the keychain.

1. In the Text inspector, type your name. Choose font if available.

1. Embossed text: leave text as Solid, select both text + base → Group to permanently join (this merges geometry so text prints as part of the base).

1. Engraved text: set text to Hole before grouping; select both → Group to subtract and leave an engraved text recess.

1. 3D spatial reasoning
2. Decomposing complex structures into simple forms
3. Creative interpretation of real-world architecture
4. Precision in grouping, aligning, and scaling

Learning Goals

1. Computers with Tinkercad access (mice recommended!)
2. Internet for city research
3. Centimeter grid paper + pencils for sketching
4. Access to 3D printer (optional but ideal)
5. Reference images of landmarks

Materials

1. Sketch

1. Choose a landmark they know or like.

For beginners: start with landmarks that are mostly geometric (e.g., Pyramid, Big Ben).

For advanced students: try curves or lattices (Eiffel Tower, Sydney Opera House).

1. Look up reference images (front, side, top if possible).

1. Draw a quick sketch or shape breakdown — e.g., “The Eiffel Tower = triangles + squares + cylinders.”

2. Build in Tinkercad

Tools & Tips to Teach:

1. Move & Rotate: to align and angle shapes.
2. Group & Ungroup: to combine parts into one structure.
3. Duplicate (Ctrl+D): for repeated features like windows or columns.
4. Align Tool: for perfect symmetry.
5. Hole Tool: to cut out arches, windows, or doorways.

؜3. Prepare for 3D Printing

1. Export as .STL → ready to slice and print.
2. Open a Slicer Program
3. “Import” and select your .stl model.
4. Use Rotate or Lay Flat tools if needed.
5. Adjust the size (Scale) only if necessary — e.g., to fit the print bed.
6. Click Slice: The slicer will generate the toolpath and show: Estimated time, Material use, and preview layers
7. Save the sliced file (usually .gcode) to:
8. An SD card or USB drive for most printers
9. Insert into the printer and start the print!
10. Watch the first layer — it should stick evenly.

؜Print Settings

1. Infill: 15–25% for most models Supports: Only if there are overhangs > 45°
2. Adhesion: Add a brim or raft if the object has a small base

؜4. Print + Reflect

1. It should take around 2 hours! Once it's done take a cool shot of your project!

In this activity, students will research, sketch, and 3D model a city skyline using Tinkercad. Then students will 3D print their designs to display and take home. Curricular connections can also be made easily to geography, geometry, scaling/measurement, and informative writing.

1. Identify geometric shapes that compose real buildings.
2. Learn to model efficiently in Tinkercad using grouping, scaling, and alignment tools.
3. Practice scale and proportion when converting 2D sketches to 3D.
4. Understand the importance of overhangs, print orientation, and bases in 3D printing.
5. Reflect on the design process — from inspiration to finished product.

Learning Goals

1. Computers with Tinkercad access (mice recommended!)
2. Internet for city research
3. Centimeter grid paper + pencils for sketching
4. Access to 3D printer (optional but ideal)
5. Reference images of city skylines

Materials

1. Explore

Goal: Build visual inspiration and understand skyline composition.

1. Look up skylines from different cities: New York, Riyadh, Tokyo, Paris, Dubai, etc.
2. Discuss: What makes each skyline recognizable? (Height pattern, building shapes, landmarks.)
3. Choose one city — or invent your own futuristic one.
4. Save 1–2 reference photos.

2. Sketch

Goal: Break down buildings into basic geometric forms.

1. On centimeter grid paper, sketch your skyline using 3–5 main buildings.
2. Simplify each structure into cubes, cylinders, pyramids, wedges, etc.
3. Think in scale: each 1 cm square = 10 mm (1 cm = 10 mm).
4. Add a simple ground/base line that connects the buildings.

.

؜3. Model in Tinkercad

Goal: Turn 2D sketches into a 3D skyline.

1. Start with a flat base (rectangle about 100 mm wide × 5 mm thick).
2. Build each building using primitives (boxes, cylinders, wedges, roofs).
3. Adjust each building’s height and scale using the white handles or the numeric inspector.
4. Use the Align tool to line up buildings neatly along the base.
5. Use the Group function to merge buildings that belong together.
6. Add text for your city name or your own name using the Text shape.
7. Advanced option: Use Hole shapes to cut windows or roof details.

؜4. Prepare for 3D Printing

Goal: Make sure it prints cleanly and stands up.

1. Check for overhangs — anything not supported underneath may not print well.
2. Rotate the skyline flat onto its back using the rotation arrows if too much overhang.
3. Use the hotkey D to drop the model to the workplane.
4. Add a flat base or wedge under your skyline so it can stand upright after printing.

If the design is not flat on the work plane, one trick you can use is to create a large rectangle with a short height and group the large rectangle as a hole across the bottom of your design. This will flatten the bottom of your design evenly and allow you to drop the design to the work plane and print it flat on its back.

؜4. Prepare for 3D Printing

1. Optionally, engrave your name or the city name on the base.
2. Export as .STL → ready to slice and print.
3. Open a Slicer Program
4. “Import” and select your .stl model.
5. Use Rotate or Lay Flat tools if needed.
6. Adjust the size (Scale) only if necessary — e.g., to fit the print bed.
7. Click Slice: The slicer will generate the toolpath and show: Estimated time, Material use, and preview layers
8. Save the sliced file (usually .gcode) to:
9. An SD card or USB drive for most printers
10. Insert into the printer and start the print!
11. Watch the first layer — it should stick evenly.

؜Print Settings

1. Infill: 15–25% for most models Supports: Only if there are overhangs > 45°
2. Adhesion: Add a brim or raft if the object has a small base

؜5. Print + Reflect

1. After printing, stand the skyline all next to each other upright and display!.